Prepare the pheasants for roasting. Normally they are sold ready to cook, but sometimes you will need to pull out the tiny pin feathers around the wings and legs. Do this with tweezers or pliers. Remove any lumps of fat from the cavities.

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

Brush the outside of the pheasants with olive oil. Season the inside and outside with salt and pepper. Mash together the rosemary, thyme, and garlic in a mortar and pestle or mix in a small bowl. Place half this mixture in the cavities of the birds (a little in the front cavity, more in the rear cavity). Spread the remaining mixture over the outside of the birds. If using the pancetta, place 2 half strips over each pheasant breast. Truss the birds with string.

Place the pheasants on their sides on a rack over the pan. Roast in the oven for 30 minutes, turning the birds from one side to the other after 15 minutes.

Add the wine to the pan and continue roasting the birds for another 20 minutes, turning once. (If too much wine in the pan evaporates, add a little more.)

Turn the pheasants on their backs (breasts up) and increase the oven temperature to 450°F. Roast the birds in this position for 6 to 8 minutes to brown the skin.

Remove the pheasants from the oven and cut each one in half with a large sharp knife or poultry shears. Place the halves, cut side down, in the roasting pan with the wine. Pour the brandy over them.

Roast for 3 to 4 minutes more, or until there are no traces of pink in the meat.

Transfer the pheasant halves to plates or a platter.

Strain the pan juices into a sauce boat for serving on the side.

Polenta or risotto would make an excellent accompaniment.